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Preparations for Mt Everest Expedition Accelerated as ‘Icefall Doctors’ Fix Safe Route


Kathmandu: With the onset of the spring season, preparations have begun for mountaineering expeditions to Sagarmatha, also known as Mt Everest. A team of 10 ‘icefall doctors’ has embarked on a journey towards the Base Camp to establish a safe route for climbers aiming to scale the world’s tallest peak.



According to National News Agency Nepal, the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) is overseeing the activities for securing ropes along the Khumbu Icefall area. Committee Chairperson Lamakaji Sherpa confirmed that the team, consisting of eight experienced ‘icefall doctors’ and Base Camp manager Tshiring Tenzing Sherpa, left Namche equipped with the necessary tools. The team has been divided into two groups, led by Aangsarki Sherpa and Dawajangbu Sherpa.



The Department of Tourism under the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation has tasked SPCC with fixing ropes, opening safe routes, and repairing the Khumbu Icefall route since 1997. The teams are responsible for establishing the climbing route up to Base Camp II, which includes fixing ropes and placing ladders in risky areas.



A special worship ceremony, in line with Buddhist tradition, was conducted to begin the process of fixing the climbing route. Chair Sherpa explained that local Lama Gurus perform the Puja to please the ‘Mountain deities’, ensuring the safety of climbers. It is expected to take around 20 days to open the route up to the second base camp, although adverse weather conditions could extend this timeline. Climbing permits for professional teams will be issued only after the completion of the route setup from Base Camp to the upper point.



The SPCC charges foreign climbers a fee of 600 US dollars per person for these services, which include maintenance and environmentally-friendly initiatives. Chair Sherpa highlighted the essential and risky nature of the icefall doctors’ work, noting their contribution as crucial for a successful expedition. The income of the icefall doctors primarily comes from these service charges.



Preparations for climbing Mt Everest have intensified, with all necessary measures in place for climbers’ convenience. While the exact number of climbers for the current season is not yet available, it is expected to surpass previous years. Chair Sherpa emphasized the importance of establishing a safe climbing environment and coordinating with all parties involved, as mountaineering tourism significantly contributes to the national economy.



Tourism entrepreneur Bal Bahadur Darnal expressed optimism for a successful season, contingent on favorable weather conditions. He anticipates a substantial number of climbers and assured that preparations for safe climbing, route construction, and environmental protection are underway. All entities involved in the Mt Everest climbing are fully prepared, with equipment, food, and communication facilities available from the Base Camp to higher altitudes. Special training for local Sherpa guides and long-term conservation plans for the mountain environment are also in place.