Kathmandu: The government has initiated the process of issuing mountaineering permits for expeditions aiming to climb Mt Everest, the world’s tallest peak, during this spring season.
According to National News Agency Nepal, the Department of Tourism has granted permission to 17 women and 60 men from seven climbing groups to attempt the ascent of Mt Everest, also known as Sagarmatha.
Department Director Liladhar Awasthi confirmed that permits have been issued not only for Mt Everest but also for 29 other smaller mountains. To date, 198 climbers from various countries, including Nepal, have received permission to scale Mt Everest. Additionally, permits have been granted to 66 climbers from six groups for Annapurna-1, and eight climbers from one group for Annapurna-5. For Makalu, 15 climbers from a single group have been authorized, alongside another 15 for Lhotse.
The route to the second camp of Mt Everest is in the process of being opened and fixed. However, strong winds in the Sagarmatha region over the past two days have posed challenges to the preparations. The Department reported that icefall doctors are awaiting more favorable weather conditions, as winds have reached speeds of 35 kilometers per hour, causing pieces of ice to fall.
Efforts are currently focused on securing a ladder in the Khumbu Icefall area and installing hooks in Hanging Air. Director Awasthi stated that four ladders, along with 12 hooks and nails, have already been established in the icefall area with 1,100 meters of the route constructed so far. The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) has deployed an icefall doctor to open the mountaineering route from Base Camp to the second camp of Mt Everest.
A 10-member team has been assigned for this season to ensure safe passage for climbers. The Mountaineering Expeditions Operators’ Association will manage the rope-fixing tasks from the second camp to the summit once the route to the second camp is ready. An eight-member team led by Ashok Lama has been commissioned for this endeavor. The responsibility for rope management and route preparation has been entrusted to the 8K Expedition Company for this climbing season, as spring is considered the optimal time for such endeavors. This season, a substantial number of foreign climbers are expected to attempt Mt Everest.